Tuesday, January 12, 2010

End of the World Train








The Ferrocarril Austral Fueguino is a 500 mm (1 ft 7 3/4 in ) narrow-gauge steam railway that was originally built as a convict train.  Pat being a train fan of course had to check out what is considered to be the southernmost functioning railway in the World!

Towards the last half of the 19th century the area around Ushuaia was established as a penal colony with prisoners arriving in 1884.  Originally oxen pulled wagons along the narrow gauge rails transporting local rock, sand and timber.  Between 1909 and 1910 the line was upgraded to use steam locomotives, connecting the prison camp with the forestry camp and passing along the shoreline in front of the growing town of Ushuaia.  Although back then the prisoners rode on flat cars with armed guards.  The railway was gradually extended further into the forest and into more remote areas as wood was exhausted.  It followed the valley of the Pipo River into the higher terrain.  Constant bulding allowed expansion of the prison and the town, with prisoners providing many services and goods.
The prisoners were used to construct the streets, bridges and buildings of the town of Ushuaia.  Their printing shops, photography, tailoring, carpentry and medical workshops took care of the immediate needs of the population of the town as well as providing work and a trade for the inmates.  The prison functioned until 1947 when it was shut down and the railroad was turned over to the Navy.   In 1952 a earthquake struck the area and the railway was shut down due to damage from the earthquake.

.                                                  In 1994 The End of the World Train was refurbished and began services again.   A new 2-6-2T Steam Locomotive (Camila) was brought from England in 1995 and another made in Argentina at the same time the Engineer Porta a 4-4-0, providing locomotive power.  For those of you who are not train buffs those numbers have to do with steam locamotive wheel arrangement.  Today there are at least 6 engines some steam and a few diesel along with an impressive roster of coaches all of which you can check out in the web site below.

Although the railroad now serves as a tourist attraction, it still follows along some of the same route as the convict train. When we rode the train, to our knowledge, there were no known convicts on the  train.  The passengers of today ride in luxurious compartments compared to the open aired flat cars of the convict's days.   The cars have been enclosed, heated and have spacious windows for viewing the scenery and taking photos.    We happened to luck out and board the train that was being pulled by the Ingeniero Porta 2.  The web site pictures remind me of my garden railway trains perhaps because it is narrow guage. Maybe we stepped into  Gullivers Travels instead of Hartmans Travels.

 The departure of the Train started by a bronze bell, originaly from the Southern Buenos Aires Railway.  The conductor explained in both English and Spanish a bit of the history of our train ride.  We enjoyed the beautiful scenery of the National Park.    We traveled along the Pico Valley to Cascada de la Macarena Station were we  visited the water fall or ventured down to see "huts" of the Yamana people during the 15 minute stop.  I took pictures of the other trains!  Then "All Aboard"! The train then entered Terra del Fuego National Park and the forest, traveling through the valley below the mountains, we see where the forest has been logged  many years before, finally reaching El Parque station.   We continue on to see more of the park but if you visit you can take the train back for a return trip.  If you'd like to learn more about the train or see the route it follows check out  http://www.trendelfindelmundo.com.ar/















Perhaps we will make it to the White Pass and Yukon in 2010.   Alaska is only 17,818 Km.   Just have to make it to Skagway! 

Thursday, January 7, 2010

Parque Nacional Tierra Del Fuego

Tierra del Fuego National Park was founded in 1960 and is just 12 km from Ushusia, Argentina. After our train ride we disembarked from the train and boarded buses to see more of this beautiful park. This was Argentina's first coastal national park and and it extends 630 sq km from the Beagle channel to North of Lago Fagnano. According to the lonely planet guide only a few thousand hectares along the southern edge are open to the public. The rest is a Natural Reserve strongly enforced. Those Andean Condors need a lot of room!


During our visit to the park we visited Fagnano Lake. I can't say I've been to Chile like Scott has but I can say that I've seen it! Standing on the shores of Fagnano Lake one can see Chile as the Lake is shared by both Argentina and Chile although the majority of the lake lies in the Argentine Tierra del Fuego Province, and only 13.5 km belong to the Chilean Region. The landscape in this beautiful park
consists of awe inspiring bays and rocky beaches with rugged mountains and valleys created by glacial erosion. The Andean-Patagonian forest is often compared to Alaska's panhandle as it is Argentina's only coastal national park and offers hiking, climbing, fishing and kayaking. Sounds familiar.


Flora and fauna is diverse here in the park. Over 20 species of mammals call the park home including guanacos, foxes both red and gray, rabbits, beaver and muskrats. Condors, albatross, cormorants, gulls, terns, oyster-catcher, grebes, kelp geese, orange-billed steamer ducks and woodpeckers. In fact there are over 90 species of birds including the Magellanic Woodpecker.
As we walk towards the view area we see all sorts of birds and European Rabbits. Bahia Lapatiaia is spectacular. Nearly makes one want to sail around the cape.
Some of the trees in the park have a lichen known as farolito chino or Chinese Lamp. As you can see from the picture it looks like a nest, but is actually a bright yellowish green roundish plant.




































We are here on the final end of route 3, southern tip of the Pan-American Highway. For those adventure seekers with lots of time on your hands you can drive from Prudhoe Bay, Alaska, in North America to Ushuaia, Argentina . Only 29,800 miles except a break of 54 miles in the Darien Province in Panama and the Columbia Border called the Darien Gap. What a way to experience 14 different countries if you have the time and motivation! Perhaps bicycle or motorbike? Having seen the top and bottom portions reading Tim Cahill's book Road Fever about his 24 day journey would be our method. We'll take the planes to the 14 countries. If you do choose to do the road system, take lots of insect repellent, as the gap is rain forest. Time to head back to our bus and back to Ushuaia. Antarctica is calling to us!

Tuesday, January 5, 2010

The End of the World

Ramos Generales in Ushuaia for coffee and pastries was recommended to us by friends we met on the cruise. What a great find! It's a museum in an old warehouse; if you haven't had enough of penguins you can order a pastry shaped like one. Check out their web site to get a feel for the place at http://www.ramosgeneralesushuaia.com/ There is even an old prison uniform! Thanks Rolf and Christian!













Time to head to the airport to catch our flight to Buenos Aires. We will miss the the long days of sunshine and but have fond memories of all the wonderful people we have met on this leg of our adventure! Adios Ushuaia